By Angela Madaras • Photos By Susan Ayer

When the pandemic started in March 2020, restaurants had to close their doors for a bit of time to re-group. Most were able to provide delivery, no contact pickups, and take-out options. During this time, mobile food folks had an edge. It was truly amazing how food businesses, from farms to restaurants, figured out new ways of operating in a short period of time. York Food and Drink (and many other alternative eateries) made the change successfully and super-fast.

This article is about York primarily, but also about some of the mobile cooks and chefs who have become extremely popular because of York’s willingness to invite them into this new outdoor dining experience. Customers seemed happy to have many food options they may not have tried before. York inspired several food businesses to adapt to this new model of eating and drinking safely while creating a larger community based on sharing space and co-creating for everyone’s benefit.

I have been joyfully shopping and dining at York Food and Drink for many years. They offer a variety of sandwiches, salads, seasonal soup, and baked goods, as well as cured meats and cheeses so one can create their own nosh board. They will customize any order to fit the customer’s dietary wishes.

My favorite is the Cali sandwich filled with smoked turkey, avocado spread, smoked Gouda, red onion, tomato, and lemon basil aioli on toasted eight-grain bread. They make the best Americano I’ve had in the states. Additionally, I enjoy all of the richly diverse mobile food cooks and chefs who operate out of community kitchens, local food stores, food trucks, food carts, and gathering spaces. I have tried many while visiting York.

The innovative folks from York have inspired many foodies from every walk of life in our area and beyond. Some of them collaborate, and many use locally-sourced ingredients to grow our regional economy.

I had many questions for owner-manager and founder Tommy York and co-owner Sarah Okin about the business model that inspired many others. I am sharing just a part of what was shared, but it is enough to know that this business is about people and community. They feel it is their duty to create an indoor and outdoor space that brings people together in a safe and entertaining way. They give much to charities, while also bringing in DJs, food trucks, and artists to help them pay their bills. I was touched each time I visited and left feeling grateful for the food, drink, and camaraderie.

Angela Madaras: When did it hit you that the pandemic called for a complete change in your business practices—like online ordering, food truck courtyard, outdoor dining, and expanding the wine sales room? And what gave you the idea to offer heaters, a small fire pit, DJs, rotating food trucks, cocktails, and a family-friendly environment? And how did you make it happen?

Tommy York: About a month or two after the pandemic hit in mid-March 2020, we had the funds and the people, a website ready for creating an online ordering platform, a supportive community, and lots of hard work. We worked up to ninety hours a week for a few months in order to accommodate our customers and our vision for the future. My degree in social work and seven years at Zingerman’s, gave me the tools I needed to make a swift change. I always had a passion for helping people and supporting community. It took every single person involved. My neighbors, family, customers, and others left very large tips, sent us money to keep the doors open, and some folks bought gift certificates but never used them because the community wanted to see us succeed in serving the public. I was raised to volunteer as a child and help people in need. My parents instilled in me that “you are special, but not too special.” These ideals, and patience, got me through it and keeps me going. I was fortunate that my wife Julie was so supportive—I could not do it without her.

Angela Madaras: What other major changes were made in the way you run your business as it relates to your community and its seemingly temporary needs? I assume you felt the pandemic would end and perhaps you could go back to “normal”?

Tommy York: We created a place reminiscent of the “good old day’s neighborhood” or family reunions. We were able to get an additional permit to serve alcohol in our outdoor food-entertainment area. We realized quickly that this model was here to stay, and we were lucky enough to have the space to expand and meet the needs of our staff and customers.

Angela Madaras: How many owners, managers, and staff do you have?

Tommy York: There are five of us “owners.” Each has his or her own focus. We make a great team. Our staff is fabulous and works hard to make customers happy. We could use more steady staff, but so can everyone. Staff counts change regularly.

Angela Madaras: Are you aware of the impact you made on the food scene? There are now about a half dozen local food joints mirroring your model, with their own twist.

Tommy York: I will let Sarah answer that question. She is a working partner who handles human relations, social media, and communication, plus many other tasks. The family-friendly party vibe in the courtyard was her and her husband’s vision, so I’ll let her explain.

Sarah Okin: My husband and I lived in London for a number of years and would frequent pubs on the weekends. The Sunday Roast is an institution in England, and we wanted to create that atmosphere for our young family, our friends, and the broader community—to create a space that was safe for kids to roam and fun for parents to enjoy food, drink, and conversation. We got the idea for the Sunday Spin from our days on Brick Lane—live DJs and long hours spent in the sun with friends and kids over the afternoons. DJ Batz (Aaron Batzdorfer, our lead Sunday Spin DJ) was the one who suggested we add live art to the event, and of course it was perfectly on brand with the vision that all of York’s partners share: creating a shared community space for art, music, quality food and drink, and positivity. Olivia Chadwick, events producer, was the one who decided to schedule two pop-ups:we host one that serves a meal and one that serves a dessert! This event is very special and is even being copied at other establishments locally.

When the start of the pandemic forced so many of us to close our doors, we quickly shifted operations outside into our ample outdoor space. We gave all our tenants a generous break on the rent and invested the little cash we could scrape together into making the outdoor space beautiful and enjoyable. Contributing to the atmosphere were the fire pits, murals, colorful chairs, rocks, drink rail, plants, and kids play furniture, too!

We had our biggest sales day ever in February 2021, outside, in a pandemic, in Michigan. People were starved for safe options to do what they love, and we provided them with a way to make it happen. We also decided it was our responsibility to be generous and share what we had--a safe space and a small but mightily loyal customer base. So, we began inviting pop ups to sell their food to our customers—we felt that if we had found a way to survive the pandemic, we should share our good fortune with other small businesses who were struggling. This is my favorite part--lifting others up—as one of my friends always says, ‘A rising tide lifts all boats.’ We invited any pop up who wanted an audience to sling their food at York. For the first two years we charged nothing, and our crew added work to their plates to ensure things went smoothly. Now we charge a nominal fee which we reinvest into the food truck/pop up program enhancing electricity, equipment, and advertising. We added DJs who were looking for new ways to make money to our weekend evenings. We reached out and lifted them up as well.

Two of our crew members, Chelsea Koga and Lorena Ganser, launched an online art auction using York’s Instagram account. They collected pieces from our crew members and others in the community and sold them on a donation-auction basis. It was extremely ingenious and helped bring in some extra cash during a time when cash was so tight for everyone in the industry. We got some cool press coverage on that, but most importantly, our crew and their friends got some much-needed income when businesses were shuttered. We are grateful and innovative.

Angela Madaras: Tommy, what is your favorite part of the business?

Tommy York: Making people happy and comfortable by creating a public space to hang out, to eat, drink, listen to live music, play games, participate in an art show, and so many other community events. I love the feeling of family within the entire business from owners to staff to customers. Our job is to create a space for all to enjoy…and we do.

Angela Madaras Do you have any advice for food truck owners and mobile food people?

Tommy York: Find good mentors and try it for a year. Be patient. Surround yourself with people who will tell you the truth whether you like it or not. And do not be afraid to accept help.

Noah Kaplan is another invested partner in York. Kaplan’s success in starting a successful speaker company, Leon Speakers, over twenty years ago in Ann Arbor, and being part owner of Mothfire Brewery, gave him the funds to invest in York. He acquired the building and remodeling the old space into what it is today. It includes the parking lot behind York, the large capacity courtyard where they are able to serve creative adult beverages and a wide variety of food for every taste bud. Aside from the incredibly satisfying Euro-style York fare for breakfast, lunch, and cocktail hour, they also serve up Ricewood BBQ’s permanent, in-store window service for tasty BBQ. Plus, the permanent food truck called Boa Boys is parked outside at one end of the courtyard. Some nights they offer free music and entertainment or just some hip music to groove with food and drink. It is one of the best places to see, and be seen, any time of day or night as well as every season thanks to fire pits, heat lamps, and umbrellas for shade.

Ricewood BBQ shares York’s kitchen with a designated service window. The smoked BBQ offerings from Ricewood is an American-meets-Asian street food shining through in sandwiches, rice bowls, spicy wings, brisket, Szechwan chicken, burritos, tacos, and hamburgers (depending on the day’s specials). You can buy BBQ by the pound until they sell out. I love their rice bowls with Szechuan chicken or pulled pork. I also love the smell of wood coals cooking meat. It draws one to the flame like a moth.

Bao (bow) Boys have a permanent food truck parked out back of the courtyard featuring Asian-style steamed dumplings called “Bao Buns” filled with a variety of Asian fusion fillings from vegetarian mushrooms to spicy pork to one that elevates Spam! The pillowy soft buns cost around $5.00. I suggest three per person. They also offer a rice bowl featuring pork belly, Japanese-style poached egg, and vegetables in a dashi broth.

York sells all sorts of healthy food options in the grab-n-go case with a Euro-Spanish twist like the spicy Italian bocata or Caprese salad. They have a daily frittata, bagels, toasts, a seasonal soup, crisp green salads, deli classic sandwiches, Spanish bocatas (sandies on a baguette), baked sweets, and a kids’ menu. On top of that, they offer cheese boards served with olives, meat if desired, and a baguette. They also sport a beautiful full bar serving craft brews, handpicked wine options, inspired cocktails, classic cocktails, and neat pours, thus providing an experience inspired by European markets, bars, and cafés. You can take advantage of a small bar outside and in the evenings a bar tender-server will help keep your drink topped off. The expansive wine room sells small estate wines with regular tastings and specials. Tommy York does not care if you bring food from Anthony’s Pizza next door as long as you purchase your beverage at York. He wants all businesses to thrive. This type of goodness gives York good karma and a loyal customer base. Check their website for events, guest food trucks, and pop-ups.

Visit York Food & Drink at 1928 Packard Street in Ann Arbor. They are openTuesday – Thursday from 8 a.m. - 9 p.m., Friday - Saturday 8 a.m. - 10 p.m., and
Sundays from 8 a.m. - 9 p.m. For more information give them a call at (734) 662-0798. info@Yorka2.com or visit them online at Yorka2.com/events.

Another location inspired by the York business model is Homes Brewpub, also in west Ann Arbor. They provided year-round indoor-outdoor seating before the pandemic and later, they opened a second location at 112 Jackson Plaza along with Dozer Coffee, The Can Shop, and Smooj Lab (beverage bar) where Homes beers and Smooj canned hard smoothies (adult beverages) are the main focus. They have a brewery production facility plus a large community kitchen and gallery that has more than ample seating. They bring in mobile food businesses as well on a regular basis so check their events page for updates. Their website states that, “Homes Campus is a creative community of businesses centered around the Homes Brewery production facility, just down the road from the brewpub. Come hang with us.”

My first visit to Homes Campus was to taste Brava Empanadas after I had a text conversation with owner and cook, Silvia Parra McCarthy. I asked her if she could prepare a good sample of her Argentinean Empanadas that were either frozen, or partially cooked, so I could sample at home. She said she could and included heating directions for each type of empanada.

Sadly, I did not meet her when I picked them up, but I enjoyed meeting her sons and sharing information about their extremely popular business. The authentic empanadas were each perfectly created with a crust that crunched a little around the edges then melted into a buttery-savory morsel. There were fillings such as ham and cheese (an Argentinean favorite), spinach and cheese with a creamy béchamel sauce, chicken Portuguese, ground beef with onions and hardboiled egg, mushroom with mozzarella cheese, caramelized onions and seasonings, and corn with Spanish and green onion, red and green pepper. If you like Central and South American cooking, then food trucks are for you and Brava is currently the only Argentinean food truck in our region.

A popular African food truck in the USA, Fork in Nigeria, happened to be at the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market one Saturday. I was excited to try a few items from the menu! The owner and staff were warm and calm as the line started to snake around the truck. They suggested a juice called Zobo while we waited for our lunch to be cooked. I have no idea what the beverage was made of, but it was a cold, red, aromatic drink that was not too sweet and had a little sour pucker along with cinnamon undertones. We ordered small meat pies for appetizers with a flaky-buttery crust that did not fall apart while nibbling. We enjoyed a chicken and rice dish served with lightly cooked vegetables. The sauce on the chicken had a little fire kick. I was exceedingly happy with the food and the people who made it happen.

In contrast to spicy African fare, I tasted from several excellent BBQ trucks: PB&J BBQ, Good Eats, and Baby Bear Burgers plus the Pierogi Queen, Sanich Union, Friendly Foods Vegan Kitchen, Moon Sky’s Cheesesteaks and so many others cooking all kinds of good food. There was even one amazing fire-baked pizza truck called PizzaPazza that parked occasionally at Erratic Ale in Dexter.

Erratic Ale is another wonderful outdoor and indoor brewery with a small food menu and big hearts. They do a lot for the community and have events, musicians, and fun family nights that residents can bike and or walk to. Every time we have visited, they are packed, so get there early.

I actually visited PizzaPazza food truck there twice because the first time blew my mind and I wanted to know if one could call in an order to bring home for reheating. The answer was a resounding yes! The Chef’s name is Jeff Condit who was friendly and kind. They do parties and will park just about anywhere. When you find them, ask how in the world they can get a wood-fired pizza oven to cook pies in three minutes from a truck! We tried the Sausage and Peppers Margherita which was very saucy with a lot of fresh basil and fungi that rocked my mushroom-white pizza fantasies, and Vegetali with an abundance of Swiss chard, Kalamata olives, roasted tomato, garlic, EVO oil, mozzarella, and ricotta. Each pie was scrumptious with a perfectly baked crust and a tinge of burnt bits around the edges. They also have a larger catering menu from which to choose.

I could write all day about every food truck or mobile chef-cook with whom I spent time. I was touched by each person’s generosity and kind spirit. I usually struck up conversations while they cooked and helped other customers, yet I was never made to feel like I was being a bother. There are now many places where trucks park such as farmers’ markets, White Lotus Farm, Ann Arbor Distillery, Erratic Ale, York, Homes Campus, and a few other spots listed in the directory (see sidebar). I encourage all our readers to support these folks and leave generous tips!