Feeding the American Dream

By Angela Madaras

Almost everyone has eaten in an American style diner where burgers, fries, and homemade pies are the best sellers. A place where everyone knows one another, coffee breakfasts for groups of friends start many people’s mornings, and dinner take-outs end the workday. In Ann Arbor there is a diner that mixes classic diner fare with a bit of Korean flair. Around 1990 Bell’s Diner started serving Korean food as an addition to the already traditional all-American favorites. One can drink unlimited coffee with scrambled eggs and a side of kimchi. It is quite a wonderful mix of cultures that owners Ben and Anna Kwon, and their family of staff, serve Ann Arborites every day.

The indoor space is bright after a recent interior re-do. They offer free parking that is shared with Stadium Hardware. Many local trade’s workers know this well as Bell’s has become a place to meet and eat after picking up supplies. My father and his buddies ate at Bell’s together at least once a week when they were younger. The Kwons know all the regulars quite well. Ben Kwon said, “Our guests mean the world to our family. They are the reason we open our diner every morning. Nothing better than catching up with the community over a cup of coffee.”

My personal favorite dish is their Bi-Bim-Bop with a side of cucumber kimchi. Most Korean restaurants serve cabbage kimchi, but Bell’s kimchi was so tasty and popular that they had to find a vegetable that could be more easily prepared. I also like buying a pint of their Korean BBQ sauce that flavors the cucumbers. It is excellent on eggs, grains, meats, and vegetables. Another menu favorite is their Tuna Sensation. It is a tuna melt with zip in addition to all the attributes that a perfect “melt” should have: soft melted cheese, creamy mayo tuna salad, crunch from lettuce, and a perfectly grilled bread holding it all together.

But what really holds it all together at Bell’s Diner is the feeling that you are like family when you walk through the door. At one time they had a wall of fame filled with photos of their long-time customers and sometimes their customers’ kids and grandkids. Some of those folks have moved on or passed away. Even though the photos are no longer adorning the walls, the Bell’s website still has a section of customer photos—like a family photograph book. This is how they feel about each person served at their tables. It is one big happy family for twelve hours a day. Before they serve the public, the Kwons allow their employee-family to cook their own food, which is usually South Korean, and the whole crew eats together. 

This daily ritual is how the Korean menu came about. Customers smelled the family-staff meals coming from the kitchen and started asking if they could try this unique smelling fare. The Kwons started a weekly Korean Special then a daily special until they finally added a Korean section on the regular menu. Bi-Bim-Bop with Bulgogi (spicy marinated beef) and a spicy chicken meal called Dok Bokeum are the best Korean menu sellers. No matter what you try on their menu, you will not be disappointed. The Kwons take great pride in their kitchen and care deeply about each plate that is served. You can tell from the following interview that Bell’s will be around for a long time to come for all to enjoy and future generations to share.

Angela Madaras: Where did the name Bell’s Diner come from?

Ben Kwon: Bell’s Diner actually came from the original owner. We purchased the restaurant in 1987, so it has only had two owners. We have joked about calling it Ben’s Diner, but Bell’s has a better ring to it. 

Angela Madaras: Why did you decide to open the diner, and how long after you moved to the United States did this occur?

Ben Kwon: It [the restaurant] was our ticket to the American Dream. I moved here in 1980 from our hometown in the southwestern part of South Korea and started working as a janitor. Eventually, I got into the automobile industry working in factories. My father was a great technician and knew how to build and repair just about anything, so it was easy for me to get into that field. However, in 1987 we were presented with an opportunity to take over—to become an owner was a goal for me and many other immigrants. 

Angela Madaras: Did you have cooking experience or culinary education? Or was your cooking more homegrown?

Ben Kwon: I grew up watching my elders prepare meals and I would help my mother cook for our whole family (I have seven brothers and two sisters). She would have me taste all her meals as she prepared them, and I quickly picked up on all the different seasonings of the dishes and how to tell them apart. I always enjoyed cooking meals that brought our family together. I think I have an intuitive sense of seasoning and preparing tasty dishes. My mom still cooks with us.

Then, I joined the army in 1977 for a few years, and I volunteered to help run the kitchen that served the rest of our soldiers. I would determine what was on our menu, and I managed the line of cooks. There were many times we were very limited on our resources and ingredients, but I think that is where I learned to get very creative. 

AM: What are the best sellers on your menu?

BK: Bi-Bim-Bop which is a classic Korean dish with seasoned vegetables on a bed of rice topped with your choice of protein (chicken, beef, or tofu) and an egg. The most popular protein is our Korean marinated beef. Spicy Chicken (aka Dok Bokeum) is also a very popular dish for those that like a bit of spice! 

AM: Why did you decide to make cucumber kimchi instead of cabbage?

BK: There are many variations to Kimchi. The traditional form is cabbage, but cucumber was a good option for us since it is a simpler process. Kimchi got so popular that at times we had to make it on the fly, and it would be much more difficult if we used cabbage. Our customers love our kimchi.

AM: How long did it take you to realize your South Korean dishes were a hit?

BK: When we first took over Bell’s, we kept its original menu as a “Classic American Diner.” We had a lot of family working for us to help jumpstart our business, so our staff meals consisted mostly of Korean food. It did not take long for our customers to smell the good food and ask about it, so we started to introduce one Korean dish each day as our lunch special. Eventfully the response got so great, we had to bring all of the dishes onto the menu full time! Now we are known to be a place where you can enjoy traditional Korean dishes but also get a side of pancakes to get in your breakfast cravings at any time of the day! 

AM: We are all immigrants to this country and we each have our own story. Would you share yours with our readers?

BK: When I think about immigrants, I think about how strong they are to have left their whole lives behind to start a new chapter in a completely unfamiliar place. I think about how brave they had to be to move to a place where they didn’t speak the language fluently but ultimately had the courage to take a leap of faith. That was our family’s case, and the unknown was of course terrifying, but it also brought us a lot of hope for a brighter future. 

After I got a chance to settle down here in Ann Arbor and take over Bell’s Diner, we invited the rest of our family to join us and start a life here. We offer to be their steppingstone into the states, so they first start living with us and working at the diner to get their feet off the ground until they get enough savings to pursue other opportunities. It is so wonderful to take a look back now and see how far all of our family members have come. Our daughter works in the Tech industry in Chicago while our son is a golf instructor in Dallas. 

AM: What was the hardest aspect of moving to America? 

BK: The hardest part was getting our whole family out here and there were many years we had to be apart. There is still a good amount of family back in Korea, especially on Anna’s side where we haven’t been able to see them for extended periods of time, but it makes the reunions that much more special. 

I first started out in Saline and worked in various other cities in Michigan until we decided to settle down in Ann Arbor.

AM: I find that food brings people together and naturally creates empathy and understanding. Have you experienced this at Bell’s?

BK: Yes! That is why the restaurant industry can be so rewarding even though it is a tough one to be in. It is gratifying to know that we serve as a meeting spot for others to gather and enjoy a meal together. 

It was especially hard when Covid hit and we were all forced to be apart.But somehow, we saw the community come together and support small businesses in their own ways. Whether it was ordering carry out through us or even mailing in thoughtful cards with donations, we really felt the love and support of our customers, and it got us through some hard times. 

AM: Will you pass the diner along to family or employees when it’s time? 

BK: For now, we would like to keep it within our family since it has become such a big part of our lives. When our customers come in, they are greeted by our team, like Anna and Nami, and are excited to join us for another meal. We feel the same when we see familiar faces come through as well as new faces! 

AM: What is the greatest gift you have received from owning Bell’s since 1987?

BK: The greatest gift is our customers. We have so many regulars that have stayed loyal from the beginning and they have brought in their children and now their grandchildren in to enjoy. We love to see how all the families have grown, and it brings us joy to see them come back through our doors. 

AM: What advice would you give immigrants who want to own their own restaurant?

BK: Work hard and always be true to yourself. There will be troubling times, but don’t give up on achieving your dreams. 

AM: Do you cook when you are at home and what are your favorite home dishes to prepare?

BK: I do most of the cooking at Bell’s, so my wife takes over the cooking at home. But when we’re together working the dinner shift, we will just cook a meal for ourselves and eat there before heading home so we don’t have to worry about creating a mess in our kitchen! 

AM: Would you share a recipe from your hometown? 

Ben Kwon: Budaejigae: this is also called the “army soup.” During my time in the army, we would always get a large pot of spicy soup and fill it with leftover ingredients we had available to us at that time. It is similar to the concept of a “kitchen sink” meal, but now this army soup is found on nearly every Korean menu if they have a stew section. It usually consists of spicy broth with ramen noodles, spam, rice cakes, and veggies. (You can find a recipe here: cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1023236-budae-jjigae.)

AM: Has all this been worth the hard work and sacrifices?

BK: Yes, hard work always pays off. We have been fortunate enough to have run a successful business and create a home for our family. Our son Chris, and daughter Lydia, were born and raised here and it is rewarding to see how they have grown up and been given the opportunities that I didn’t have. [Even so,] they are just as grateful and caring of others.  

AM: You are so very calm and nice. How did you learn to be kind to fellow humans?

BK: I have learned that everyone has their own struggles but instead of judging them, being kind to others can truly help them get through those times—or at least make it more bearable. I had to grow up at a very young age and my family certainly struggled to make ends meet, but helping others always seemed to be the most gratifying to me.  

AM: What is your philosophy of life?

BK: Life is short. Always be humble and give back to others when you can. 

The time I spent talking with Ben, his wife Anna, and his daughter Lydia, was special. I came away feeling appreciation for the time I’ve spent eating at their long and diverse table with my extended family. We have learned much and gained much from sharing food and cultures over meals and miles. They taught me that moving well over 6,000 miles to America and starting a business where your family can work and learn, is a gift many will never know. Ben could not share enough of his gratitude for his family’s ability to make their “American Dream” come true. They are thankful for the customers and community that support their business. 

You can get a taste of American diner meets Korean flair at Bell’s Diner every day of the week from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Bells Diner is located at 2167 West Stadium Boulevard, in Ann Arbor. To take a peek at their menu, go to their website at bellsdinerannarbor.com.

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