Spiedo with Love

By Hilary Nichols

Spiedo: noun. A type of sharp-pointed metal spear or spit on which meat is roasted.

Brad Greenhill bought a vertical rotisserie on a whim. As the owner of the James Beard nominated “Best New Restaurant” Detroit’s Takoi, Greenhill wanted to experiment with spit roasting meats. He had the notion that once a new location became available, he might branch out. Last October, along with his team, executive chef Michael Goldberg and General Manager Matthew Ferreira, Greenhil did just that. They opened Spiedo in a well-loved location in Ann Arbor. The 1300 square foot space was once Jerusalem Garden and then Chela’s. If you’ve driven past Liberty on 5th Street, you surely have noticed the brightly painted exterior. Spiedo catches your eye. Greenhill was already a fan of the space, too.

During his student days at the University of Michigan he was a regular diner at Jerusalem Garden. In 2015 he had a pop-up in the spot, introducing Ann Arbor to his creative culinary expression with his Thai inspired menu. “The spot was on my radar,” recalled Greenhill. With a busy walking district and a vibrant population, they knew Ann Arbor was the right place to introduce their unique concept. “We had wanted to create an elevated, fast, casual dining experience and felt like Ann Arbor was a great town for that with U of M and its plenty of foot-traffic,” he said. Plus, the kitchen came equipped with a griddle that paired ideally with their rotisserie for quality, locally sourced meats carved hot from the spit served on freshly griddled flatbread.

The unifying element is that simple. “The bread,” Greenhill responded quickly when asked. Simple to grab-and-go, or to eat in, but what Spiedo has crafted from this pairing is anything but simple. The marinated meats, roll broiled are not necessarily served in a middle eastern tradition. No tradition is more their style. Their menu reflects this, with international influences that seem impossibly disparate but are married like magic in the hands of these talented chefs. Greenhill brings his Italian, BBQ, and Thai notes, next to Goldberg’s refined flavor pallet. “Michael worked with me at Magnet, a restaurant we had in Detroit. His passion was hummus and falafel, and he loves his Hawaij, a Yemen style spice blend.” Now he reaches for fish sauce, makes kimchi, and crafts the menu along with Greenhill “guided by just having fun and doing foods we like.” Greenhill continued, “I am always going to push the dynamic flavors like umami, sour, and sweet. That crosses over well into creating dynamic food.”

Dynamic is the word I was looking for to describe this fare. I first came to Spiedo on a lark, compelled by the bright exterior paint job, but I returned nearly every week for the flavors. The menu consists of four to six sandwiches, vegetable sides, and a few dips, which change and evolve seasonally. In my opinion each of these menu items is required eating before the season is over.

Everything on the menu is seasonal. The beets, carrots, and potatoes are all handpicked locally from their own family farm in Detroit. Greenhill’s partner Noel grows the produce at HiO farms. From their website I read, “HiO Farm began in 2019 on an acre of cultivated land in Core City, Detroit and functions as an ongoing conversation between farmer and chef. Each season is planned with Takoi and Spiedo in mind, creating a closed loop, sustainable food system from seed to plate. This symbiotic relationship allows for product at its peak; it’s not unusual for a harvest to be done the day the kitchen needs it.” This isn’t even something that Greenhill brags about, but it is this attention to quality that becomes evident on the plate. “Additionally, we rely on Ann Arbor’s Ceely farms for beets and Tantre farms for carrots,” Greenhill said. Our local land dictates the menu.

On my first visit I ordered the ‘charred carrots’ side and a ‘Zoug Knight’ sandwich to split with my guest. The carrots are a thing of beauty, served over a generous smear of tahini ranch with an array of bright green herbs and crushed pistachio nuts sprinkled on top. The combination of flavors danced on my tongue, in a surprise of tang and heat, smoke and nuttiness that made me shake my head in awe. The chicken sandwich is not short on flavor from house made Zoug sauce, and the tart of their own sour pickle spears. Their half sours are so bright, I wanted to bring home a jar. How can a pickle be so compelling? Each element is carefully crafted and combined to wake up every taste bud and comfort your palate at the same time.

Though the dining experience is casual, you order your meals at the register and take a seat, the food is what makes the experience. “You are paying a bit more here, but you’re paying for elevated food. You’re getting a fine dining level of quality but in a casual setting,” affirmed Chef Brad Greenhill. This chef-run restaurant serves fare that is scratch cooking with the highest quality ingredients which is reflected in the price. Nominally. I hadn’t noticed. The price point allows them to provide equitable pay to hold on to their loyal staff.

“Our first two hires still run the room,” Matt Ferreira said with pride. As the General Manager, Ferreira is in charge of the guest portion of the experience. “Part of my day is to support the staff to reflect the creativity coming from the kitchen.” The staff, all Ann Arbor locals, seem to understand the assignment. “They know how the city works and how the restaurant and nightlife is valued here—which is nice.”

Open from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, the new addition to Ann Arbor dining life isn’t shy to stand out. Spiedo’s exterior is painted light pink, seafoam green, and dark pink. The color block theme expands inside with more international inspiration. Influences from Mexico, Morocco, and the U.S. Southwest mingle invitingly. The walls alternate bright blue, seafoam green, pink, and orange, with bold patterned throw pillows along the bench seating. “It is a tough building to work with,” with a small downstairs and a long thin upstairs for dining spaces. “We wanted to create continuity through lights and color,” described Greenhill. Ferreira laughed. “We called it Spiedo Miami Vice.” Bright and pastel colors add a sunny cheer that Greenhill remembered from a trip to Oaxaca. The patio will be open in the spring.

I ask them what their favorite menu item is, and Greenhill and Ferreira agree with a laugh, “the frozen treat.” This chocolate tahini combination is a perfect little shake. It was hard for them to decide, but they also each recommended a favorite main dish. I go with their newest addition, the Juicy Sean, named for their fish guy. The fresh flatbread is lined with Moroccan marinated and grilled Walleye chunks. It’s paired with pickled onions, avocado, and shredded napa cabbage for a crunch. Described on a quick web search as the ‘Thai sauce to improve everything,’ a generous drizzle of phrik nam pla sauce brings it all together. There are plenty of questions on the menu that the gracious wait staff are happy to answer, but rest assured, you can’t go wrong. Any sandwich is also available as a gluten free rice bowl. Spiedo has a great selection of creative craft cocktails, beer, and cider that pair well with their fare. The combinations are endless and exciting. It is clear here, that they offer their attention to more than flavor: there is love crafted into these recipes, and it comes through in every bite.

Visit Spiedo at 307 South Fifth Street in Ann Arbor. For questions, email yes@spiedoa2.com or visit their website at spiedoa2.com. Online orders are accepted from their webpage through “Toast.”

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