By Petula Brown
Confession time! As a native New Yorker who moved to Michigan to attend U-M, I never understood the appeal of going “up north” for a restful getaway. I could appreciate its appeal for campers, skiers, and hunters, but not having such interests made Northern Michigan something of an enigma to me. So, an extended visit to the Petoskey area was an ideal opportunity to see the variety of settings, cultures, and cuisines reflected in the region.
Rest assured, the landscape is not the urban vibe or suburban tone of Southeastern Michigan population centers. As a non-camper who appreciates opportunities to commune with nature, the accommodations at Petoskey’s Grace Grange provided the ideal compromise. The twenty-acre property near the North Country Trail is surrounded by state forest interspersed with walking trails. Established in 1986 as a horse facility, Grace Grange maintains boarding stalls that can be used by guests, one of the many distinctive traits of the bed and breakfast. Many furnishings are heirlooms crafted by family members accented with pottery from Petoskey’s Sturgeon River Pottery, a uniquely “up north” retail destination and four decades old family business. Additionally, innkeeper Pamela Rambow, serves as the artist-in-residence as most of the artworks are her creations. Rambow’s emphasis on well-being was demonstrated by her attention to detail, from crafting innovative breakfast dishes to creating a guest-accessible area for food storage and snack access (to accommodate Covid-era requirements that guests not enter the kitchen). Such personal touches elevate the guest experience at Grace Grange beyond a typical B&B—it was an intimate respite for mind, body, and soul.
The tranquil, homespun style of Grace Grange was a contrast to the energy of agricultural activity at Lavender Hill Farm in Boyne City. Acres of lavender fields provided a unique aromatic experience, making a casual walk around the property akin to an aromatherapy session. My first experience at Lavender Hill’s was a lunch event highlighting lavender-infused selections and a candlelit yoga session. The importance of Lavender Hill as a nexus of community activity was obvious. Its popularity as a location (as evidenced by Illinois, Florida, and California license plates in the parking lot) was reinforced by a distinctive retail collection. Lavender-loving guests can bring home the Lavender Hill Farm experience in the form of plants, bathing products, snacks, and alcoholic beverages.
After exploring Lavender Hill, driving through foliage wasn’t particularly exciting to me. However, I was encouraged to visit the Tunnel of Trees by a family of Chicagoans exploring Northern Michigan. Heading north on M-119 from Petoskey seemed uneventful, but beyond Harbor Springs exists a scene that could reside in a fairytale. Traversing the serpentine road through the natural canopy felt like a stroll through a storybook setting. The manicured lawns and luxury amenities of resort communities yielded to log cabins and earthen landscapes. Exploring the Tunnel became a meditative experience in which the journey was the destination rather than the means to a destination.
While there are several arboreal settings within the Petoskey area, waterfront venues provide an alternative way to relax, refresh, and release. Bay View, midway between Harbor Springs and Boyne City, is a resort community with lodging options of various price points. Upscale accommodations abound but staying in nearby Petoskey provided opportunities for short commutes through eclectic neighborhoods as well as impressive views of Little Traverse Bay. Less than an hour south of Bay View, Walloon Lake and Boyne City provide walkable, intimate spaces that embrace lakefront environs. Both areas allow travelers to support local retailers, explore docks, and enjoy water sports. Particularly commendable are the Covid-era adjustments at the local restaurants. At Walloon Lake’s Barrel Back, the footprint was expanded to include an outdoor bar on the dock and tent seating in the courtyard to enjoy takeout orders. On Boyne City’s Water Street, outdoor seating provided by most restaurants afforded diners ample space as well as relaxing lakefront views.
Though the serene backdrop of Little Traverse Bay is shared by Harbor Springs and Petoskey, each waterfront community has a unique identity. Petoskey’s larger footprint interlaces distinctive Victorian architecture, resort properties, and retail outlets, creating a hub of activity with a familiar suburban vibe. Harbor Springs, its population a fifth the size of Petoskey, has a small-town feel. Nearly all downtown businesses are locally owned. Most accommodations are vacation home rentals and B&B’s rather than hotels or resort communities. It’s low key, bedroom community vibe provides the ideal venue for a relaxing getaway.
Note that during my travels, no tents were pitched and no fish were caught. All accommodations had indoor plumbing. As someone who associated “up north” with frontier living, I appreciated the chance to experience a region that simultaneously offered natural beauty, relaxed surroundings, and varied refreshing experiences.
Learn more about Grace Grange Lodge and Stable on their website gracegrange.com. You can find operation hours, events, and information about Lavender Hill Farm at lavenderhillfarm.com.
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