By Angela Madaras
This past winter I was eager to visit the newly built storefront of Vestergaard Farm, attractively situated on the farm property. Along with their farm raised meat, the store offers other goods from Matty’s Bakery in Saline, Zingerman’s coffee and treats, Calder Dairy products, The Brinery products, Aldente Pasta, Amaizin Pop Popcorn, honey, bath products, maple syrup, eggs, and many other locally sourced items. The owner, Mike Vestergaard, and technical-marketing expert Sidd Vemuri, will be adding products slowly, as well as farm tours (when it is deemed safe), possibly ice cream, and eventually a fresh meat counter-butchery as time and funds allow. Even before the pandemic they were wanting to take one step at a time, and I respect that, as so many enter farming and retail with little understanding of financial reality. Their vision is still to be a “destination” spot for locals and tourists of all ages to walk around the farm, visit the animals, sip on complimentary coffee, and purchase locally sourced foods.
They also make it a priority to educate as to why their chicken, for example, might cost more than production raised chickens from the grocery store, and why Belted Galloway cows can pasture in Michigan winter and taste wonderful. People generally come back for more after eating their meat and understanding how well the animals are treated, and how expensive yet valuable regenerative-ethical farming can be. Sustainable land management takes the soil, water, animals, and people’s welfare into account for future generations. The land sits on the Greenbelt which will keep it in agriculture for many years ahead. Vestergaard bought the historic farm in 2010 from Erwin Frederick and added the newly constructed USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) approved store. Only USDA approved meat can be sold here. The processors providing butcher services must be USDA approved as well.
I sat with farmer Mike Vestergaard (a Danish born farmer with a bachelor’s degree in Dairy Farm management from Ladelund Landbrugsskole), and Sidd Vemuri at a cozy table in the store as customers walked in and out with curious questions and happy faces. One man just dropped by for his regular cup of complimentary Zingerman’s coffee. I asked if this was okay with them, and they responded favorably, because they want to be good neighbors while providing a place for community members to utilize, even if they are just grabbing a quick cup of free java. One of Vestergaard’s sons was running the shop while being extremely helpful, knowledgeable, and eager to educate the customers about the farm and the products they sell. Both sons farm and work in the store, as well as attend college. I could see the hard work ethic this family shares, along with great energy and sincere smiles.
Vestergaard and Vemuri gave me valuable information, and offered inspirational ethical values about farming, livestock, place, process, and people. Vemuri showed off the photos hanging on the store’s walls: Vestergaard’s self-designed chicken hoop house “tractor”, and their animals in vibrant, healthy pastures. Vemuri also explained his technical assets in setting up computer systems for the retail end of the business, sourcing products, marketing, and web management. Aspects of running a business that Vestergaard does not have the time to handle. I meet many farmers, but few with the passion and determination that Vestergaard displayed. You can tour the farm and meet some of their rare and heritage breed cows, pigs, and chickens during the warm weather.
According to Vestergaard Farm’s website, animal welfare is priority number one. Properly and carefully managing the land for future generations is second. Being financially viable is third, but extremely important for farmers, animals, our community, and those who will inherit the farm and the land around it.
Pasture-based farming is an animal centered production model that incorporates the well-being of the animals, the land, and wildlife. Grazing on pasture fulfills the natural behavioral instincts of our farm animals. They enjoy better health with an appropriate diet and live in a low-stress environment. On pasture, they are healthier and happier which means less stress hormones in their meat. Stress hormones can take away the enjoyable flavor that naturally exists in free ranging livestock.
Pasture-based farming using rotational grazing methods restores natural ecosystems and wildlife habitat, reduces man’s reliance on chemicals to make artificial fertilizers derived from fossil fuels, improves the soil, and reduces harmful greenhouse gases.
Small family farms provide jobs and strong economies in communities; creating sustainable businesses for succeeding generations.
What is “Natural Meat” by Vestergaard’s definition?
Their animals live close to how they would if they were on their own—though perhaps a bit more comfortably since they provide shelter, food, and clean water. They go indoors and out on their own. The only time they are confined indoors is when mothers are about to have babies or during inclement weather. In those cases, they are exclusively indoors during the week or so before delivery and a few weeks after.
The animals are fed a natural pasture-based diet. They eat grass for at least three seasons and, in winter, as the grass dies back, they are fed dried grasses such as hay. Vestergaard Farms grows its own hay and haylage, and doesn’t use chemical fertilizers and pesticides in their fields. Chickens and pigs are not ruminants and need some grain in their diets, but they are never fed GMO grains.
Vestergaard doesn’t use prophylactic medications. On the rare occasions when it is called for, they will treat an animal that is ill with antibiotic or other appropriate medications. They do not think it is humane to let an animal suffer or die from a treatable illness. Animals who have received this kind of treatment aren’t sold as natural meat.
They never use farrowing crates, or cattle prods, or machinery to move their animals. Instead, Vestergaard Farms uses humane livestock handling guidelines, created by Temple Grandin, to use the animals’ natural routines and tendencies to move them from place to place without stress.
Mike Vestergaard is concerned about a holistic approach to sustainable farming: improving the environment, protecting the animals, increasing the financial viability for farmers, and educating the public while feeding them local, delicious, nutrient-dense meat. “We follow organic principles in our production, but we are not certified organic. Becoming certified is a burdensome process, and it adds considerable cost without (we believe) adding additional value to the way we do things and to our products. We are proud of all we do and will be happy to show you around.”
Visit Vestergaard Farms at 4408 S. Wagner Rd. Ann Arbor, Michigan 48103 or online at vestergaardfarms.com, or give them a call at (734) 929-2875. The farm is taking orders by phone and offering curbside delivery.
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