Weekend Getaway to Kelleys Island

By Petula Brown

Heading east toward Kelleys Island, I reminisced about past excursions to Sandusky. Cedar Point and Great Wolf Lodge are well known as family travel destinations, but I never knew that Sandusky is part of the north central region of Ohio known as “Vacationland.” While familiar with inland attractions, the Lake Erie islands of Vacationland were completely unknown to me. Considering most of my island experience was growing up in Manhattan, I was curious to experience island living as a low key, accessible getaway miles from familiar seashores.

Driving on the barge-like Kelleys Island Ferry shared with SUV’s, commercial vehicles, and pedestrians was a new experience. Drivers left their vehicles to gaze at the horizon on the upper level. The feel of the wind and sound of the waves while on Lake Erie served to reset my mind and body for a slower pace. Approaching Kelleys Island, I noticed a preponderance of golf carts traversing the island reinforcing my sense of Kelleys Island as a resort enclave.

After we docked, I was ready for my first island meal. A few minutes from the ferry dock, you couldn’t miss the festive exterior of KI Cantina. The Mexican restaurant’s claim to have the Island’s smallest bar is offset by having a large outdoor seating area shared with Kelleys Island Wine Company. Though familiar options tacos, burritos, and margaritas were available, I opted for the Power Bowl entrée. Its base of cauliflower rice, Pico, cheeses, and guacamole was appealing to vegetarians, but there was an option to add chicken, pork, or chorizo. With rain clouds on the horizon, I passed on outdoor seating to lounge within the Wine Company restaurant. Common ownership between the Cantina and the Wine Company allowed visitors to freely travel between establishments. A broader footprint and subdued pub-like atmosphere provided families and larger parties a spacious area to socialize.

After eating I met Rick and Tricia Kody, the married innkeepers of Water’s Edge. Year ago, they were Kelleys Island visitors staying at Water’s Edge to celebrate Tricia’s birthday. The combination of the intimate setting, sunset views, and the ambient sound of waves on the Lake Erie shore provided a romantic backdrop and memorable experience. Moving toward retirement, and after years of experience as bed and breakfast guests, the Kodys felt a strong affinity toward innkeeping. Months into their search for the ideal property, the Water’s Edge hit the market, and the couple purchased the property in the summer of 2019.

Reinventing themselves as innkeepers, the Kodys had no idea what lay on the horizon their first year. As the world came to grips with Covid, the travel industry faced consumers under lockdown, social distancing, and closed venues. Health-conscious travelers wary of high traffic areas, but clamoring to get out of their homes, looked for drivable destinations in low population locales to minimize exposure. Water’s Edge, an intimate cottage on an island, was ideally suited to meet the challenge.

With its distinctive niche as a Kelleys Island luxury property, Water’s Edge is well suited to couples, families with adult children, and friend groups. Each of the seven rooms is meticulously decorated and has unique characteristics. Guests staying in the Honeymoon Suite enjoy a private patio and jacuzzi tub while guests in The Kimono have impressive views of Lake Erie. Solo travelers can enjoy the seclusion (as well as the whirlpool tub) of The Cozy Hideaway. In contrast, guests amenable to using a shared bathroom can reserve The Sweet Sunrise and nearby Daybreak extension which is an appealing option for families and groups.

The locale’s attention to detail extended beyond the rooms to the exterior spaces. The entranceway and wraparound porch are surrounded by impressive landscaping. Floral and herbal varieties provided a visual and aromatic experience that infused the entire property with a sense of calm and relaxation. As a cloak of darkness enveloped the area, a starlit sky provided a magical backdrop for the Water’s Edge gardens.

As a morning walker, I relished the chance to explore while most folks were still snoozing. The energetic waves crashing against the rocky shores of Lake Erie and the avian morning symphony were ideally suited for my 15-minute walk from Water’s Edge to the marina. Minimal activity at the marina, combined with the contrasting view of the sunrise to the north, and the lakeshore to the south, compelled me to meditate. Eyes closed, I could fully embrace the island’s auditory and olfactory cues, which supported my efforts to establish mindfulness with a focus on the present.

Before heading back to the inn, I rested at an outdoor table outside of the marina’s store. A few minutes later, an older man approached to begin painting the store’s exterior, and we struck up a conversation. Within a few minutes, I learned that most of the island property is owned by one family and that Kelleys Island is a laid-back alternative to the party atmosphere of another Lake Erie island, Put-in-Bay.

I returned to Water’s Edge looking forward to breakfast. The Kodys provided table service to guests on the wraparound porch, including homemade frittata, fresh fruit, and beverage selections. The view of Lake Erie on the horizon created a serene atmosphere punctuated by lively discussions amongst the guests. A couple from Columbus, OH, regular visitors to the property, shared their appreciation for the locale’s proximity. A second couple, from New Jersey, stopped on their road trip to the Midwest recounting the sites visited east of Ohio and activities planned for the western leg of their journey. The relaxed atmosphere made Water’s Edge not just a bed and breakfast but a hub for socializing and fellowship.

After spending most of my time near the shoreline, I was excited about exploring inland locations. My first stop was about a ten-minute drive from Water’s Edge. In the middle of the island, the East Quarry Trail area provides 4.5 miles of hiking and biking trails. My strappy sandals weren’t the best choice for the rocky terrain, so I appreciated the availability of benches. As I sat surveying the landscape, I was especially enthralled by the view of Horseshoe Lake which is the flooded eastern end of the abandoned limestone quarry. Its cavernous structure felt like a miniature Grand Canyon serving as a home for a variety of wildlife as well as a recreation spot for residents and visitors.

Exploring the rustic beauty of East Quarry Trail was the ideal segway to accommodations at The Inn. A short drive west of the trail, The Inn’s eclectic and laid-back style is ideal for budget-conscious travelers with school-aged children as well as visitors looking for closer access to downtown venues. Innkeepers Pat and Lori Hayes proudly recount the Inn’s start as a private home that’s been in the family since the 1800sbeginning with early pioneers Captain Frank E. Hamilton and Erastus Huntington. So, it’s not surprising that the restored Victorian home has memorabilia from several eras. Those connections to history came alive when Lori or Pat described architectural features and family mementos found throughout the Inn.

Transitioning to a bed and breakfast in 1905, the owners consider it a “flagship for friendship” with distinctive common areas. Large sofas, a fireplace, and piano provide centerpieces to encourage socializing. Across the spacious front yard, guests have access to a private beach deck available for sunning, fishing, and relaxing during warmer seasons. For visitors interested in a deeper exploration of the island’s natural treasures, The Inn can serve as a hub for exploration and education. As board members of the Kelleys Island Audubon Club, Pat and Lori have access to a plethora of information about environmental features that distinguish the locale from other Lake Erie islands. The Inn also offers seasonal activities that focus on nature, such as guided walks and bird-banding sessions.

Considering the B&B’s emphasis on the island’s natural attractions, I was surprised by its proximity to the downtown scene. Visitors can find restaurants, shops, marinas, and taverns. A mix of pedestrians, bicyclists, and motorists (including golf carts riders and motor home travelers) navigated the somewhat narrow roadways.

One site in the downtown hub I felt an immediate connection to was The Little Healing Room. Outdoor signage advertising bodywork services caught my attention. Scanning the shop’s interior through the main window, displays of essential oil products and wellness publications reminded me of Crazy Wisdom Bookstore. My curiosity led me to schedule a massage session with owner, Patricia Ahner. The 30-minute bodywork appointment morphed into a longer integrative health session with Patricia sharing guidance about maintenance options. The sense of serenity at The Little Healing Room was in stark contrast to other downtown establishments.

My dinner venue, The Village Pump, was a great example of a bustling downtown restaurant with marina and lake views that would appeal to families. The location has a storied history: it was built in the 1800s by Gus Kelley to house a post office and barber shop followed by establishing the first bar on the island after prohibition. But its claim to fame (shared by permanent residents as well as vacation visitors), is its Lake Erie perch dishes; though with a variety of options (including salads, pizza, and sandwiches), there’s something for everyone.

I arose the second morning to a symphony of morning bird calls. Their performance and cool morning temperatures inspired me to venture inland to explore more nature-focused settings. Glacial Grooves, arguably the most famous attraction on the island, provided a glimpse of the area’s prehistoric roots. Bedrock gouged and scoured by glaciers created grooves that were exposed by quarrying in the 19th century. Quarrying stopped in the 1920s, but fossils can be seen embedded in the rock in a portion of the site at the northern end of the island. Across the road from Glacial Grooves, Kelleys Island State Park provided another area appealing to nature enthusiasts as well as vacationers. Amenities (boat dock, campground, fishing pier, playground, and more) pepper the 2,800-acre site. I welcomed the sandy terrain of the beach area, which better suited my strappy sandals than the rocky shorelines prevalent on other parts of the island. I shared the calm lake view with a variety of avian visitors, including songbirds and waterfowl, which reinforced the island’s reputation as a birdwatcher’s paradise.

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